First of all, I'd like to say that about a year ago, I myself gave in to the temptation of greed by resealing NES games and selling them as new. It worked great for a while, but eventually word got to the FBI and I was arrested. I am also a collector of NES games and I can easily tell the difference between resealed and authentic factory sealed NES games. I would consider myself somewhat of an expert in this field. Here are some easy methods that you can use to tell if a game has been resealed. Thanks to Michael The Great for information regarding #2 in this guide about the white line.
1) First of all, 98% of NES games have a seam in the shrinkwrap that runs horizontally across the back of the box. This seam ALWAYS starts exactly halfway down the box. A box is 7 inches high, so get out a ruler and measure 3.5 inches, and that's where the seam should start on both sides of the box. There are only a few games that are exceptions that do not have this horizontal line. Some legitimate factory sealed titles that DO NOT have the horizontal line include Namco Pacman, Namco Ms. Pacman, Ren & Stimpy Buckaroos, and all unlicensed titles. If a game does not have a horizontal seam running across the shrinkwrap, flags should automatically go off in your head that the game is resealed.
2) One sure way to tell if a game is resealed with 100% accuracy, is to check the "hinge" part of the top flap. As soon as the top flap has been opened for the first time, a white line will form at the hinge area, which is especially easy to notice on darker games. This white line is difficult to see in white boxed games such as Anticipation, but for a black boxed game such as Final Fantasy, it is especially easy to notice the white line. When the flap opens and closes, wear and tear will start to accumulate around the hinge area. Sometimes sellers of resealed games will take a permanent marker and color over the white line, making it harder to notice. However, the shade of color will be a little bit off and it will not be as smooth. The picture of 1942 below has wear around the hinges on the top flap and is a reseal. However, the copy of IronSword below does not have any wear around the top flap. This is because it has never been opened and is a legitimate factory seal.
3) Another way to tell if a game is resealed is to check the spot where the seam in the shrinkwrap comes perpindicular with itself (where the horizontal seam meets the vertical seam). This method is about 80% accurate. Look at this area of the horizontal seam. If the game is a legitimate factory seal, the seam will slightly overlap itself. If the game has been resealed, more than likely it will not overlap itself and will just come down making a 90 degree angle. This area that overlaps is very difficult to duplicate. I have seen legitimate games that do not overlap, but very rarely do they come down making a perfect 90 degree angle. Check the pictures below. The horizontal seam on the Burgertime game comes down making a 90 degree angle with the vertical seam. This Burgertime game has been resealed. However, on the Dr. Chaos game, the shrinkwrap slightly overlaps itself, and this game is a legitimate factory sealed NES game.
4) Chances are if the game is resealed the seller is fully aware that the game is resealed, and he probably resealed the game himself. Always look out for the word "factory". Often times sellers of resealed games avoid the word factory, and just describe the game as sealed. Resealed games are indeed sealed, so they are purposely being deceptive in their description. If a seller does not specifically describe the game as "factory sealed", always email the seller before commiting to a purchase. Furthermore, often times when sellers are being deceptive, they will purposely post pictures that are fuzzy or out of focus, using the "crappy camera" excuse for the bad quality photos.
5) Check the hang tab. Nothing about a hang tab will ever suggest that a game has been resealed, but there are a few things you can check to help prove a game is a legitimate seal. If a game does not have a hang tab, then you can skip this section. Game retailers often did not use hangtabs to hang their games, so the absence of a hang tab does not mean anything. The hangtab used to hang most NES games is a "D" style hang tab, measuring 2 inches wide and 1.75 inches high. If the sealed game has this type of hang tab, check the part of the hang tab that is connected to the shrinkwrap (the sticky part). This part of the hang tab is usually discolored a little bit due to the old age of the tab, yet strangely enough, the other part of the hang tab (not connected to the shinkwrap) is usually still clear. If a game has a hangtab with these properties being true, it is likely a legitimately sealed game and not a reseal. However, I will state again, if a game does not have a hang tab or has a different style hang tab, that does not mean anything.
6) Price tags. Many legitimately sealed games have price tags on them, but resealers have started to catch on by adding their own price tags onto the shrinkwrap. Does the price tag look like it was recently printed out? Chances are if the price tag has been there for over a decade, it will show some signs of wear and discoloration. Also, where is the price tag from? Generic white price guns can be purchased for around $15 and fake generic price tags are not hard to make. If the price tag is from a major retailer such as Toys R Us, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, etc., then the game has likely not been resealed.
7) Check the seller. Do they seem honest and legitimate? Their feedback is the first thing to check. If they have 100s of positive feedback, they are likely not pulling a scam, but don't let that mislead you. If they have any negative feedbacks, check them. If a negative feedback says something about resealing games, it would be smart to stay away. Also, check the seller's recently purchased items for CIB games that could have been used in a resealing scam.
Well, that's all I've got for this tutorial. One last thing I'd like to say is simply to use common sense. If something looks fishy at all, do yourself a favor and look into it. Don't be afraid to bombard the seller with questions. Always request more photographs if you are unsure about the ones provided. Remember, you work hard for your money. You don't want some greedy mister slug or vididiots pulling a quick scam to get a hold of your money. Be smart about what you purchase. Good luck.
Orignal From: How to Spot Resealed NES Games
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